If you tried to rotate the plug of such a lock without a key in the keyway, the top pin segment of each pin stack would block the plug at exactly the same number of degrees of rotation; each pin stack would contribute equally to preventing the plug from turning. See Figure 1. (In practice, the cuts are produced by stacking pin segments of particular lengths, not by actually cutting the pins; hence the term "pin stack.") With no key in the lock, all the pin stack cuts rest within the plug. Left: The correct key lifts the pin stacks to align the cuts at the shear line. When a key is inserted into the keyway slot at the front of the plug, the pin stacks are raised within the plug and shell. Left: Cylinder face, the lock's "user interface." Note the keyway, which is cut into the plug, which in turn sits inside the shell. If this pin stack is slowly pushed up with torque applied to the plug, eventually its cut will reach the shear line and the plug will turn a bit more.

The basic design consists of a rotatable cylinder tube, called the plug, linked to the underlying locking mechanism. Good tools are important, to be sure, but once a few basic tools are available the student of lock picking is usually better off investing in new locks on which to practice rather than in new picking tools. A few basic tools are sufficient to pick the majority of commonly used locks. The principles and skills of lock picking, once mastered, can be applied against the vast majority of commercial pin tumbler locks, and the basic tools, if somewhat unusual, are quite simple. The basic skills of pin tumbler lock picking include selecting the proper tools, manipulating pins through the keyway, applying torque, and recognizing the state of each pin. Picking tools are designed to perform one of two basic functions: manipulating pins and turning the plug. Observe that after you set the first pin, your three pin cylinder has one pin in each of three different states: set/not-binding, unset/not-binding, and unset/binding. The three hook picks in this kit are sufficient to manipulate the vast majority of pin tumbler locks found in the US.

You'll probably end up deciding that the small Peterson hook works best, but experiment with all the picks. Picking depends on weaknesses in the implementation of locks -- small manufacturing imperfections -- rather than fundamental, abstract design flaws that would be present no matter how carefully made the locks might be. The design is based on the late 18th century British Bramah lock (still in production and use today). The modern pin tumbler lock is quite simple, dating back to ancient Egypt but not commercially mass-produced until the middle of the 19th century. You could reuse the same asteroid again and again, looping it around a few gas giants and back to gain lots more kinetic energy from those gas giants in the same way that Earth just gained velocity from the rock. Both the pick and the torque tool also amplify and transmit feedback about the state of the lock back to their user. Reset the lock by returning the plug to the vertical locked position and try again but with torque applied in the other direction. It's hard to learn these skills all at once on off-the-shelf commercial locks, but that's what many people who try to learn lock picking end up doing (before giving up in frustration).

It becomes distinguishable from an unset/binding pin stack when you try to set it; while it binds, it does not set, no matter how much further it is lifted. As the peaks hit the pin stacks, energy is transferred from the bottom pins to the top pins, much like the action of the cue ball in billiards. It's much easier to learn each skill in isolation, using locks specifically set up for the purpose. In the locked state the plug is prevented from rotating by a set of movable pin stacks, typically under spring pressure, that protrude from holes in the top of the opening in the shell into corresponding holes drilled into the top of the plug. In an ideal lock, all of the pin holes in the plug would be in perfect alignment with the corresponding holes in the shell, the centerline of the plug would be exactly parallel to that of the shell, and all of the pins would be exactly the same diameter. In practice, of course, locks aren't perfect: the pin holes in the plug are slightly out of alignment with respect to the shell and the pins and pin holes are each of a slightly different diameter.

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